Drugi po veličini bugarski grad Plovdiv, ponosan je na svoju reputaciju ležernog mjesta jer funkcioniše na svoj način. Čim izađete iz autobusa, osjetićete promjenu tempa života. Ljudi ovdje kao da hodaju sporije, ne žure. Kao da imaju više vremena na raspolaganju. Saobraćaj je također u odnosu na Sofiju daleko manje užurban. Dok šetate do centra grada kroz park, gdje se okupljaju starci da igraju šah, a ljudi odmaraju i ćaskaju u sjenci starih stabala, Plovdiv će vam se već dopasti i učiniti drugačijim od bugarske prijestolnice.
Plovdiv – jedan od najstarijih gradova Evrope sa aylyak atmosferom
U centru urbanog distrikta grada Kapani, pod živopisnim freskama na zidovima, u živopisnim barovima grupe mladih ljudi se druže, koketiraju i provjeravaju svoje telefone. U kafiću pored džamije Dzhumaya, u centru grada ljudi umiju satima da sjede i pijuckaju šolje turske kafe. Čak i mačke na kaldrmisanim ulicama starog grada djeluju opuštenije nego drugdje. Istežu se a zatim se prevrnu i vrate na spavanje. Ako pitate ljude ovdje zašto je grad tako opušten, oni će vam reći: Plovdiv je, aylyak. Riječ „aylyiak“ se ne koristi mnogo van Plovdiva, iako se u bugarskim rječnicima pojavljuje s kraja 19. vijeka. To je pozajmljena riječ iz turskog „aylaklık“, što znači „besposlica“, „nered“ ili „skitnica“, a ukorijenjena je u turskom „aylık“, što znači „ mjesec dana“.
Prema Jani Genovi, direktorki Sofijske kuće za književnost i prevođenje, izvorno značenje aylyak-a bilo je „neko ko je angažovan da radi iz mjeseca u mjesec“, a koji je posljedično znao koliko je vrijeme luksuz. Glagol koji ide uz ayliak je „bichim“, izvedenica od glagola „bicha“, što znači udarati, bičevati ili sjeći grede i daske sa stabla drveta. Ideja udaranja, bičevanja ili sječenja je podsjetnik da je aylyak nešto aktivno. Ako želite da vježbate aylyak, morate da „odvojite“ dio vremena za sebe. Morate preuzeti inicijativu da se odvojite od svojih svakodnevnih briga. Da se opustite i prepustite.
Ali kakvo god bilo porijeklo riječi, u savremenom Plovdivu, aylyak je dobio svoje značenje i značaj, nešto što se ne smije toliko prevoditi koliko proživjeti. Kada tražite od ljudi da objasne šta to znači, najčešće će vam reći šalu. Šala ide ovako. Građanin Plovdiva druži se sa španskim posjetiocem grada. „Šta je aylyak?“ pita Španac. Bugarin nekoliko trenutaka razmišlja, a zatim kaže: „To je kao tvoja manana, manana, ali bez stresa.“
Evropska prijestolnica kulture
Godine 2019. Plovdiv je sa Materom u Italiji dijelio titulu Evropske prijestolnice kulture. Kao dio aktivnosti Grada kulture, jedna organizacija – Fire Theatre Mime Company, na čelu sa bugarskim glumcem, rediteljem i umjetnikom mimike Plamenom Radevom Georgievim – sprovela je niz javnih konsultacija za dublje istraživanje aylyka. Plamen je rođen u Staroj Zagori, oko 80 km sjeveroistočno, a kada je stigao u Plovdiv 2018. godine, bio je autsajder i aylyak kultura mu nije bila poznata. „Naše istraživanje je bilo teško. Ljudi su pitali zašto smo zainteresovani baš za aylyak. Rekli su da to uopšte nije vrijednost, odnosno da je to samo lijenost“.
Ali kroz javne rasprave pojavila se šira slika. Ljudi su govorili da aylyak zapravo vrijeme. Odnosno da je to kao kada sjednete za doručak sa prijateljima i ustanovite da se i dalje družite do mraka. Radilo se o uživanju u vašem okruženju. Bio je povezan sa socijalnim statusom, sa nekom vrstom delikatnog lutanja ulicama bez ikakve veze. I na dubljem nivou – Georgiev je ovo nazvao „Zen aylyak“ – ili ti sloboda duše.
Aylyak – brend ili hipsterski marketing Plovdiva?
U Sofiji su mnogi ljudi vrlo skeptični prema aylyak-u, doživljavajući ga kao ništa drugo do brendiranje prijestolnice kulture ili hipsterski marketing.
„Mnogi ljudi dolaze ovdje da žive jer grad posjeduje taj aylyak“, rekla je Svetoslava Mančeva, antropolog i direktor ACEA Mediator-a, organizacije posvećene povezivanju zajednica i urbanih prostora koja u Plovdivu živi već 10 godina. Njena koleginica, Elitsa Kapusheva, koja je odrasla u Plovdivu, nedavno se vratila iz Berlina u rodno mjesto. „Berlin je bio dobar, ali nije imao aylyak“.
Za Mančevu je aylyak ukorijenjen u dugoj istoriji kulturne raznolikosti Plovdiva. Jedan od najstarijih gradova Evrope bio je komercijalno središte u 19. vijeku. Od svih gradova Osmanskog carstva, bio je drugi po značaju trgovine nakon Istanbula i dom Jevrejima, Grcima, Bugarima, Romima, Armenima i Slovenima, zbijenim na ulicama i kafićima ili kafićima. Mančeva kaže da je aylyak bio odgovor na izazove života sa strancima. „Riječ je o pronalaženju sopstvenog prostora u gradu“, rekla je. „Za mene je tlo aylyak-a komunikacija. Ne treba da volite jedni druge. Važna je volja za razgovorom, želja za razumijevanjem “.
Istorijski izvještaji o kafićima u Plovdivu u 19. vijeku opisuju ih kao mjesta na kojima su se miješali zanatlije i gdje je vrijeme polako prolazilo. Bugarski pjesnik iz 19. vijeka Hristo Danov s neodobravanjem je pisao o tome kako su ljudi provodili cijeli dan u kafanama. Ljudi odlaze u kafanu, napisao je, da puše, razgovaraju, piju kafu i „nestrpljivo čekaju da sunce zađe kako bi mogli da pređu na rakiju od šljiva“.
Autsajderi su takođe prihvatili jedinstveno opušten osjećaj Plovdiva. U svom putopisnom prilogu iz 1906. godine, britanskog putnika Džona Fostera Frejzera zaokupio je tempo života u Plovdivu (tada zvanom Filippopolis): „Zamislite scenu. Vrt, osvjetljen mnogim lampama. Ispod drveća nebrojeni stolovi. Za stolovima je sjedio „sav Filippopolis“, pijuckao kafu, pio pivo, nazdravljajući jedni drugima u litrima vina. Na jednom kraju vrta bila je mala pozornica. Tu je mađarski bend svirao rapsodije … Bila je nedjelja uveče i Philippopolis je uživao.“
Plovdiv – grad koji zna kako da uživa, da se druži i časka
Većina građana Plovdiva reći će vam da je aylyak zapravo pronalaženje prostora i vremena.
„Radi se o pronalaženju prostora za predah poslije napornog dana. Za ispijanje kafe. Radi se o pronalaženju uglova i pukotina u gradu – uličicama, malim parkovima, klupama – gdje se možete družiti sa prijateljima, puštati muziku, piti pivo ili ćaskati. Radi se o stvaranju prostora za druge kada komunicirate. I, kao što je rekao Gerogiev, riječ je o pronalaženju prostora slobode usred životnih poteškoća“, rekla je Mančeva koja smatra da ne postoji bolji način života.
Zato ukoliko se zateknete u ovom gradu, prošetajte njegovim ulicama, polako. Sjednite u kafić ispred džamije, naručite tursku kafu i porciju kjunefea, deserta porijeklom sa Bliskog istoka, koji u sjajnom kulinarskom potezu kombinuje baklavu i sir. Pored kafe dobićete i vodu sa slatkim sirupom od ružine vode, koja će da ukloni gorčinu kafe.
Plovdiv pokazuje da nije sve u vrevi velikog grada, ili ti potrebi da se kupi najnovija tehnološka igračka, da se uvijek nešto dešava. Ljudi, a posebno mladi ljudi, iskusili su strašne neželjene efekte burnout-a. Otuda potreba da uspore i da žive više sinhronizovano sa prirodom i sobom.
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